For the lucky/sturdy souls who managed to battle through the bloggers, there were winemakers (Catherine Breton, Jean-Christophe Comor and Jean Montanet) pouring at the back of the boutique. Another wine stand at the front, manned by a cast of headlit deer, kept the ever-growing horde well-lubricated.

And to soak up all that wine, there were stacks of jambon persillé and a “hot dog” of white sausage (boudin blanc) with morilles. The latter – a juicy and slippery thing – continues to perfume the front of my sweater with its sweet and earthy fragrance.

Between the mob, the musicians, and the distraction of delicious things, it was hard to make out the exact details of what they’re selling here at Spring. But this I did see: a basket of oozy Robiola, silver vats of olive oil (Manzanilla from Spain) balancing upon the most beautiful antique stove, floor-to-ceiling cases of wine, a selection of chocolates that drew an approving nod from my pastry-making friend, curious jams with pumpkin and dandelion flower, Martelli pasta, and much more. They’re also stocking fresh seasonal vegetables like black turnip and mâche.

Anyone staying much after 8:00 was almost obliged to escape to the sidewalk, where the expanding crowd threatened to merge with the one spilling out from La Garde Robe across the street. It was a great party, and I’m curious to return another day to drool over the careful selections of Mary-Aude. I don’t expect it to be cheap visit…

Spring Boutique
52 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
01 58 62 44 30