Last night was my third and final visit to La Perla. I’m guessing that at least half of the customers at this semi-Mexican in the lower Marais think they are meeting at the hipster bar Le Perle. You can see the confusion wash over their faces when they’re greeted by neon beer signs with no [...]
Last week, I found myself at a place that people don’t much talk about anymore – Aux Lyonnais. This is Alain Ducasse’s take on the bouchon, a style of restaurant from Lyon specializing in that region’s traditional and very meaty fare. I brought my boyfriend, a real Lyonnais, for dinner last week. We started with [...]
I ate at Spring on Friday night, along with two other writers who have already published accounts of the very same meal. I’ll spare you the repetition and simply direct you to these reviews by Barbra Austin and Adrian Moore. You might also like to read the review by Mr. Lung from the following night, [...]
La Régalade is one of this city’s most beloved classic bistros. Founded by Yves Camdeborde in 1992, it was left in the hands of Bruno Doucet, a chef who (high praise) didn’t ruin it. I visited this bastion of bistronomy last year, loved my meal, but never returned. I suppose that distance trumped delicious. How excited [...]
I went last night for the first time to La Bigarrade, approximately two years after everyone else. This far-out restaurant (in terms of both cooking and location) has been a hit ever since it opened back in December 2007. In the model of Spring restaurant (Daniel Rose was a consultant), chef Christophe Pelé produced a [...]
My boyfriend recently informed me that he had made a dinner reservation: “Someplace new… someplace I think you haven’t heard of.” “That’s not possible,” I replied, and I meant it. For the past six weeks, in preparing to launch a new website, I’ve been following the restaurant press quite closely. If I hadn’t heard of [...]
3, rue Richer, 75009. 01 47 70 67 31. Open for lunch Thurs–Fri, and for dinner Tues–Sat. Closed Sun and Mon. The area around Grands Boulevards has suddenly (and surprisingly) become cool. This major thoroughfare, not far from two landmark department stores, used to be nothing but chains. In recent years, however, a handful of [...]
Located in a bustling market neighborhood behind Bastille, La Gazzetta has been a favorite for several years. With soft lighting, leafy palm trees and polished dark wood, this beautiful space would be a hit among the local bobos no matter what was happening in the kitchen. The output of that kitchen, however, reveals that La [...]
I first learned about this tiny bistro from Hungry for Paris, that excellent book of bedtime stories by Alexander Lobrano. He recounts, in the review of Chez la Vieille, the story of his first encounter with the namesake old lady (Adrienne Biasin), as well as the things (classic dishes, cheek-pinching) that came from her hand. My [...]
Ze Kitchen Galerie is a restaurant that I avoided for many years for one simple and superficial reason: that name is stupid. The faux-French pronunciation . . . the dual-purpose (food/art) pretension . . . I can barely think about it without rolling my eyes. But perhaps there’s another reason for my tardy arrival at [...]
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