I felt like a stalker last night at L’Ami Jean. I walked into this place carrying more back-story than should ever be brought to a restaurant. I knew of love affairs that had taken off because of chef Stéphane Jego’s cooking. I’d heard about marathon sessions in which the most serious eaters I know couldn’t finish everything that was served. I’d been checking the Facebook page, on which they post the daily changing menu, for several months. And I’d been writing about it for years without ever having been.
Virgins who wait too long before sex have a similar problem…
Hayden Clout used to be my (and everyone else’s) favorite bartender at Fish. He and Matt Ong just opened this new place in the 10th, not far from métro Poissonière.
Photos from the new L’Office, where Kevin O’Donnell (previously at NYC’s Del Posto) is making some beautiful and affordable food.
Dishes from a recent tasting menu at David Toutain’s new restaurant in Saint-Germain.
Images from a special gibier (wild game) dinner, prepared by Christopher Hache and served inside his kitchen office at Les Ambassadeurs.
A few dishes from Métropolitain, a new Marais restaurant from a former Top Chef contestant. Cotton candy ice cream, anyone?
Photos from lunch on the airy outdoor terrace at Le Mini-Palais, from giant gougère to giant baba au rhum.
Au Passage is what happens when some business minded wine nuts open a large and relatively inexpensive space and spend their money on ingredients and talent. Prices are low, there enough tables and turnover to make booking a real possibility, and the menu changes every day. All this will probably add up to a habit. The rentrée will bring loving reviews and longer waits for reservations, so go and get it while you can.
L’Agrume is a well-intentioned and often delicious neighborhood restaurant where you can eat five courses for €37. The service is kind, and the interior is entirely without pretension. It should not be a destination for food-minded visitors to Paris. There is nothing particularly French, nor (successfully) innovative about the place. I’m glad that the restaurant exists, but I can’t same the same about that NYT review that will continue to send travelers to L’Agrume for years to come.
Food Intelligence, the source of 90% of the news that we republish on Paris by Mouth, recently reported on some big changes at one of my favorite bistros, Chez Michel. Responding to Bruno’s luscious photos (and in absence of any other plan), I booked a last-minute table on cold-and-rainy Wednesday for a dinner with my former [...]
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