My first meal there was memorable for reasons that had nothing to do with the food. The evening began with a visit to (the soon-to-be) Spring restaurant on the rue Bailleul, where I found the construction site overrun by models and wolves. As the fashion shoot was winding down, Daniel Rose proposed a late dinner across the street. He punched in the door code (required to gain entry), and we entered a time machine that took us forty years into the past. I tried to keep my mouth closed as I took in the scene: faux wood paneling on both the walls and the bar… a clock that would not have been out of place at my grandparents’ country club in South Dakota… and Juliette Binoche.

>>read the rest of this review at The Girls’ Guide to Paris