I felt like a stalker last night at L’Ami Jean. I walked into this place carrying more back-story than should ever be brought to a restaurant. I knew of love affairs that had taken off because of chef Stéphane Jego’s cooking. I’d heard about marathon sessions in which the most serious eaters I know couldn’t finish everything that was served. I’d been checking the Facebook page, on which they post the daily changing menu, for several months. And I’d been writing about it for years without ever having been.
Virgins who wait too long before sex have a similar problem…
La Régalade is one of this city’s most beloved classic bistros. Founded by Yves Camdeborde in 1992, it was left in the hands of Bruno Doucet, a chef who (high praise) didn’t ruin it. I visited this bastion of bistronomy last year, loved my meal, but never returned. I suppose that distance trumped delicious. How excited [...]
The look on their faces: that’s the satisfaction that comes from getting what you want. Which, in this case, was a good time with food and wine to follow a tasting at Spring Boutique. We hadn’t reserved, it was spur of the moment, and we were suffering from post-Bigarrade poverty disorder. In Paris, no money + [...]
I panicked, on a recent winter night, when some friends asked me to organize a dinner. Choosing a restaurant is something that I usually enjoy, but the guests for this particular occasion were a couple of chefs. And not just any chefs, but senior chefs working in three-star restaurants. My anxiety subsided as soon as [...]
I first learned about this tiny bistro from Hungry for Paris, that excellent book of bedtime stories by Alexander Lobrano. He recounts, in the review of Chez la Vieille, the story of his first encounter with the namesake old lady (Adrienne Biasin), as well as the things (classic dishes, cheek-pinching) that came from her hand. My [...]
Years ago, I tried le Chateaubriand and had an okay – nothing more – meal. I was later shocked to read reviews heralding this as one of the best restaurants in the city. Edgy, inventive, and over-the-top delicious – none of the adjectives matched my own experience there. I eventually figured out that Inaki Aizpitarte, [...]
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