My first meal there was memorable for reasons that had nothing to do with the food. The evening began with a visit to (the soon-to-be) Spring restaurant on the rue Bailleul, where I found the construction site overrun by models and wolves. As the fashion shoot was winding down, Daniel Rose proposed a late dinner across the street. He punched in the door code (required to gain entry), and we entered a time machine that took us forty years into the past. I tried to keep my mouth closed as I took in the scene: faux wood paneling on both the walls and the bar… a clock that would not have been out of place at my grandparents’ country club in South Dakota… and Juliette Binoche.

>>read the rest of this review at The Girls’ Guide to Paris

Opening night at KGB

Have you ever wondered why some restaurant openings are “events” while others are simply overlooked? The recent opening of Ze Kitchen Galerie Bis provides some clues about media coverage and what it takes to draw the hounds.

#1: Give us a name we can play with. No, I don’t mean this restaurant’s full name, which is just a longer version of the unfortunate original (bis means “second” or “again”) – I mean the abbreviated KGB. So much spy-themed headline potential! So much room for clever word play! See also Spring, Cul de Poule, and Mama Shelter.

#2: Give us the backstory. Second (or third) restaurants from known chefs have a built-in backstory. Any review of KGB will include a retelling of the mothership Ze Kitchen Galerie and its captain William Ledeuil. Instant filler, increased word count, easy story.

It's weird! It's new!

#3: Give us something new. The restaurant of my heart is not the restaurant of my pen. I may crave a perfect roast chicken, but really, is there anything new to say? By contrast, the Zors-d’oeuvres at KGB may be kooky and ill-conceived, but their presence on the menu gives me something to write about.

#4: Timing is everything. KGB opened during the rentrée when readers are shaking off the summer slumber and are ready for something new. Writers are back at work and hungry for material, and these “new/best openings of the rentrée” stories are easy to pull off. And finally…

#5: If Frank goes, we all go. Any mention by François Simon, the Figaro critic who always gets there first, ensures that everyone else will follow. Sometimes Le Fooding is first on the scene, but the pack principle remains. Nobody wants their editor to think they’re out of the loop.

For illustration and your reading pleasure, here are the three first weeks of KGB coverage:

• KGB: les premières photos ! François Simon, Simon Says (09/01)
• KGB (Kitchen Galerie Bis) Le Fooding (09/02)
• Kitchen Galerie Bis in the 6th: Two steps forward, one back John Talbott (09/04)
• Back in Ze Kitchen Again Paris Update (09/09)
• KGB (Kitchen Galerie Bis): FBI (fausse bonne idée)? Chrisoscope (09/15)
• Paris 6e: KGB L’Express (09/17)
• KGB : L’adresse de la rentrée L’Express Blog (09/17)
• KBG, a terrific modern bistro on the Left Bank Alex Lobrano (09/20)

When “my people” (the kindly editors at Budget Travel) told me that “Peter’s people” wanted me on the show, I was nervous to say the least. A live broadcast to 150 radio stations and Sirius satellite? No editing and no do-overs?

I came heavily prepared. The invitation was based on an article about hotel prices in Paris. I brought pages of highlighted info, talking points, and currency conversions. Boarding the train and entering the tricked-out studio, I noticed that nobody else had notes. “Peter prefers a conversation,” said Margaret, the leggy blonde production person who was making everything happen. “No notes?” I asked? “No notes.”

It wasn’t necessary, as we didn’t spend a single moment talking about hotels. Inspired by the previous guest, Alexander Lobrano (whose Hungry for Paris is a staple on my bookshelf), Peter wanted to keep talking about food. “All the better,” I thought to myself, “it’s what I know best.”

And then Peter, who was sweet as pie despite his intimidating resume, asked the first question: “what do you think of Apicius?”

My opinion? About the restaurant Apicius? Where I had never, ever eaten? Live on the radio, I did what any of you would have done: I faked it. “Oh! Apiiiicius. Yeah, that place has been getting a lot of buzz. As you told me during the break, you think everything there is great!”

We moved on immediately, much to my relief, to talk about other impromptu topics, including do I like the train?, how to save money on food (okay, that one I know), my french boyfriend, and whether I’m ever going home.

The segment flew by in a flash and the “time’s up” music was playing by the time Peter got around to hotels. After the show, we adjourned to the bar car for a glass of champagne and some Cheetos – the perfect finish for this hillbilly Parisienne (and emerging radio personality).

• To listen (free) to Peter’s show about Paris, click here (I’m on from minute 40:00 to 45:30).
• To learn more about Apicius from someone who knows what they’re talking about, click here.
• To read more about hotel prices and strategies (what we didn’t talk about) check out these Budget Travel posts:

Paris: How to find an affordable place to stay
Paris price check: Does the $80 hotel still exist?
The Parisians are on vacation! Rent their apartments