L’Agrume is a well-intentioned and often delicious neighborhood restaurant where you can eat five courses for €37. The service is kind, and the interior is entirely without pretension. It should not be a destination for food-minded visitors to Paris. There is nothing particularly French, nor (successfully) innovative about the place. I’m glad that the restaurant exists, but I can’t same the same about that NYT review that will continue to send travelers to L’Agrume for years to come.
Food Intelligence, the source of 90% of the news that we republish on Paris by Mouth, recently reported on some big changes at one of my favorite bistros, Chez Michel. Responding to Bruno’s luscious photos (and in absence of any other plan), I booked a last-minute table on cold-and-rainy Wednesday for a dinner with my former [...]
The rentrée (post-summer season) is upon us, bringing cooler weather, crippling strikes, and a host of new openings. One that will surely generate a lot of buzz is the wine bar at Spring. When chef Daniel Rose began to renovate a former skate shop on the rue Bailleul, he discovered a wealth of subterranean possibilities. His [...]
I panicked, on a recent winter night, when some friends asked me to organize a dinner. Choosing a restaurant is something that I usually enjoy, but the guests for this particular occasion were a couple of chefs. And not just any chefs, but senior chefs working in three-star restaurants. My anxiety subsided as soon as [...]
52, rue Bichat, 75010. 01 42 02 40 32. Open for lunch Tues–Sun. Closed Mon. I love bringing visitors to the Canal St.-Martin. This waterway in the 10th Arrondissement has in recent years become a magnet for hip and artsy Parisians. Good cafés and restaurants have been popping up around the water’s edge, and edgy boutiques [...]
3, rue Richer, 75009. 01 47 70 67 31. Open for lunch Thurs–Fri, and for dinner Tues–Sat. Closed Sun and Mon. The area around Grands Boulevards has suddenly (and surprisingly) become cool. This major thoroughfare, not far from two landmark department stores, used to be nothing but chains. In recent years, however, a handful of [...]
Located in a bustling market neighborhood behind Bastille, La Gazzetta has been a favorite for several years. With soft lighting, leafy palm trees and polished dark wood, this beautiful space would be a hit among the local bobos no matter what was happening in the kitchen. The output of that kitchen, however, reveals that La [...]
My first meal at this restaurant took place many years ago, during my second-ever visit to Paris. I was lucky enough to be staying with friends who lived in Paris and loved to eat – friends who knew about special places like le Bistrot Paul Bert. Memory is patchy, but a few first impressions have [...]
I first learned about this tiny bistro from Hungry for Paris, that excellent book of bedtime stories by Alexander Lobrano. He recounts, in the review of Chez la Vieille, the story of his first encounter with the namesake old lady (Adrienne Biasin), as well as the things (classic dishes, cheek-pinching) that came from her hand. My [...]
Ze Kitchen Galerie is a restaurant that I avoided for many years for one simple and superficial reason: that name is stupid. The faux-French pronunciation . . . the dual-purpose (food/art) pretension . . . I can barely think about it without rolling my eyes. But perhaps there’s another reason for my tardy arrival at [...]
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