Café des Musées is affordable, centrally located, and open every day. Those attributes, along with the fresh tasting classic French cuisine, make it ideal for visitors to Paris. The only drawback: all the visitors know it.
Au Passage is what happens when some business minded wine nuts open a large and relatively inexpensive space and spend their money on ingredients and talent. Prices are low, there enough tables and turnover to make booking a real possibility, and the menu changes every day. All this will probably add up to a habit. The rentrée will bring loving reviews and longer waits for reservations, so go and get it while you can.
L’Agrume is a well-intentioned and often delicious neighborhood restaurant where you can eat five courses for €37. The service is kind, and the interior is entirely without pretension. It should not be a destination for food-minded visitors to Paris. There is nothing particularly French, nor (successfully) innovative about the place. I’m glad that the restaurant exists, but I can’t same the same about that NYT review that will continue to send travelers to L’Agrume for years to come.
Food Intelligence, the source of 90% of the news that we republish on Paris by Mouth, recently reported on some big changes at one of my favorite bistros, Chez Michel. Responding to Bruno’s luscious photos (and in absence of any other plan), I booked a last-minute table on cold-and-rainy Wednesday for a dinner with my former [...]
Last night was my third and final visit to La Perla. I’m guessing that at least half of the customers at this semi-Mexican in the lower Marais think they are meeting at the hipster bar Le Perle. You can see the confusion wash over their faces when they’re greeted by neon beer signs with no [...]
The rentrée (post-summer season) is upon us, bringing cooler weather, crippling strikes, and a host of new openings. One that will surely generate a lot of buzz is the wine bar at Spring. When chef Daniel Rose began to renovate a former skate shop on the rue Bailleul, he discovered a wealth of subterranean possibilities. His [...]
Last week, I found myself at a place that people don’t much talk about anymore – Aux Lyonnais. This is Alain Ducasse’s take on the bouchon, a style of restaurant from Lyon specializing in that region’s traditional and very meaty fare. I brought my boyfriend, a real Lyonnais, for dinner last week. We started with [...]
I ate at Spring on Friday night, along with two other writers who have already published accounts of the very same meal. I’ll spare you the repetition and simply direct you to these reviews by Barbra Austin and Adrian Moore. You might also like to read the review by Mr. Lung from the following night, [...]
I will admit, as much as I’m looking forward to the next phase, that I miss Spring. Not the season, but the place. Daniel Rose’s Spring Restaurant was for years my favorite Paris table. I wasn’t alone in feeling that way – by the time Rose closed the doors in order to reopen in central [...]
La Régalade is one of this city’s most beloved classic bistros. Founded by Yves Camdeborde in 1992, it was left in the hands of Bruno Doucet, a chef who (high praise) didn’t ruin it. I visited this bastion of bistronomy last year, loved my meal, but never returned. I suppose that distance trumped delicious. How excited [...]