I felt like a stalker last night at L’Ami Jean. I walked into this place carrying more back-story than should ever be brought to a restaurant. I knew of love affairs that had taken off because of chef Stéphane Jego’s cooking. I’d heard about marathon sessions in which the most serious eaters I know couldn’t finish everything that was served. I’d been checking the Facebook page, on which they post the daily changing menu, for several months. And I’d been writing about it for years without ever having been.
Virgins who wait too long before sex have a similar problem…
Hayden Clout used to be my (and everyone else’s) favorite bartender at Fish. He and Matt Ong just opened this new place in the 10th, not far from métro Poissonière.
Photos from the new L’Office, where Kevin O’Donnell (previously at NYC’s Del Posto) is making some beautiful and affordable food.
Dishes from a recent tasting menu at David Toutain’s new restaurant in Saint-Germain.
Images from a special gibier (wild game) dinner, prepared by Christopher Hache and served inside his kitchen office at Les Ambassadeurs.
The first thing I ate at Noma, a restaurant that currently holds the #1 spot in rankings of the World’s Best, was a shrimp. To be specific, it was a shrimp the the size of my pinkie, still alive and fighting back.
A few dishes from Métropolitain, a new Marais restaurant from a former Top Chef contestant. Cotton candy ice cream, anyone?
A look at the interior and several dishes at Jean-François Piège, the new gastronomic restaurant upstairs from his brasserie Thoumieux.
Aux Verres de Contact might be fine for certain occasions (if you’re strolling near Notre Dame and want some better-than-average wine and charcuterie), but on the whole it doesn’t add much to the gastronomic landscape. As my table mate observed, it’s too expensive to be a neighborhood joint, and too boring to be a cross-town destination.
Photos from lunch on the airy outdoor terrace at Le Mini-Palais, from giant gougère to giant baba au rhum.
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