Rome
Volpetti (Rome)
Feb 4th
Volpetti has been serving the working-class quarter of Testaccio since 1973. Over time, the deli has evolved into a foodie destination, a place to sample and buy some of the best products in Rome.
Volpetti’s employees are well-practiced in catering to the fantasies of food pilgrims. They were eyeing me from the moment I walked in – another foreign girl wearing a gluttonous grin. I was taken by the elbow and shown a starter cheese, an accessible pecorino. “That’s nice,” I said while nibbling on a wedge. “Now what else can I taste?”
My particular guide, after sizing me up, returned with More >
Tram Tram (Rome)
Jun 11th
It’s not difficult to find a good restaurant in Rome. But it’s nearly impossible to find one that’s not filled with foreigners. I arrived in the Eternal City with the dream of finding the virgin trattoria – a charming place not yet covered by tourist fingerprints. That dream, I soon realized, is mathematically improbable. With the Eternal City now clocking 100,000 daily visitors, almost every threshold, no matter how “insider,” has been crossed.
The only hope for those who yearn to eat among the locals is to walk far away from the center into a neighborhood not on most maps. San More >
