I went last night for the first time to La Bigarrade, approximately two years after everyone else. This far-out restaurant (in terms of both cooking and location) has been a hit ever since it opened back in December 2007. In the model of Spring restaurant (Daniel Rose was a consultant), chef Christophe Pelé produced a no-choice menu from his open kitchen that was, by all accounts, inventive and delicious. It was also dead cheap – €45 for the standard “gourmet” menu and €65 for the “gourmand” extravaganza.
In February, after failing for perhaps the fifth time to book a table within the week, I surrendered and booked the first available dinner for April 7. In the meantime, La Bigarrade was awarded its second Michelin star and the menu jumped to €85. Between the price hike and the seven week wait, I was being set up for disappointment.
Because I sympathize with this chef, having to cook for people with such hyped up expectations, I feel like I should begin with something nice. Let’s see… the dining room is pretty. Both the sommelier and the wines he recommended were gorgeous. I could drink that Heissenberg Gewurtztraminer from Julian Meyer until I die. As for the food, I quite liked the financier with one roasted and salty hazelnut.
Cut to the conclusion: the meal last night was deflating and befuddled. It was cluttered and careless, like a teenager’s MySpace page that uses seven different fonts. We were subjected, over and over again, to pairings that made absolutely no sense. They weren’t “playful,” they were… stupid.
There were morsels of pleasure (the veal sweetbread with dried shrimp), but these were padded by a lot of “whatever” and “WTF?!” At least twice I heard Barbra say “they couldn’t possibly have tasted this.”
I have decided to express my displeasure through haiku.
Oh yum, milk-fed lamb!
Too bad about that fresh cheese.
Bottarga, turnip?
It’s a play, with lard
and fish eggs, on something that
really does taste good.
Iberian pork,
size of an index finger:
so freaking hungry.
This passionfruit cream
looks like egg, asparagus.
How playful and gross!
Bitter fava beans
interloping in sweet cream,
then spit in napkin.
> Read other trusted reviews for La Bigarrade at Paris by Mouth
16 Responses to Review: La Bigarrade
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I was there not too long ago, but my meal was very different to this…(it was good, for a start)
…passion fruit + asparagus. haha.
I believe it! I’ve heard nothing but good things this place, which made our experience all the more confusing.
I’m all for playing with flavor pairings (and have much love for places that do it better, like La Gazzetta, Rino and Passage 53), but these were just off. There wasn’t a single moaning moment in the entire 250€ meal (excluding the wine, which was delicious).
??? I’m shocked! One of my favourite restos in Paris. Was there for lunch last week…blew my mind. Maybe an off night? The price just went up(as you know) and thats a bummer but I’m goin back next week for dinner, I’ll let you know
Wow, that is very disappointing but makes for a very funny review and your haikus are hysterical. Strangely I haven’t been yet so I can’t comment but bravo for being so honest and saying that you didn’t think the flavor pairings worked in the dishes you were served.
Very funny and loads of thanks for helping me avoid this spot.
I need a spot for dinner next week and it won’t be La Bigarrade.
Now *this* is how you do restaurant blogging. Read and learn, everybody.
I just found your blog, thanks to someone (Pim) pimping you on Facebook.
It has made me the happiest boy in Christendom.
I think restaurant review expressed in haiku is possibly the best thing to happen to criticism in ages.
brilliant.
Hi Meg: Sorry to hear you had such a bad experience at La Bigarrade. Some of these flavor combinations sure do look a little funky.
My experiences there have been pretty positive, but I’ve only gone for lunch. Out of curiosity, what time was your dinner seating? It’s my understanding that the restaurant orders a limited number of seasonal ingredients, much of which arrive as a surprise, and creates dishes impromptu without much planning. A lot of times there are tables with completely different tasting menus. I wonder if your meal essentially suffered from the “left overs?” No excuse either way.
This review was hilarious …
Adam
great presentations for such “I just threw-up in my mouth a little” creations! Maybe they thought it was April Fool’s- or they just did it so you could put up this brilliant review. Thanks for the lol’s
You might just be saving me a chunk of $$$. I’d be willing to spend the 85E for dinner (although I was thinking it was 65E)if it was special but after laughing at your haiku, I have decided to cancel my resevration and go with either L’Epigramme or something else! Any suggestions?
Thank you for this! There is nothing better than displeasure expressed through haiku. Love it!
What a refreshing review; Haiku course descriptions should be a big part of your future…too funny! I’m assuming you will not be comped next visit.
yeah, that’s what i think of michelin stars myself
Loved your review. First the build up and then, reality,done in a funny way.
It takes a lot of confidence to express an evaluation that goes against the prevailing opinion.Bravo
Well, I was planning on trying this restaurant, but I will cross it off the list. Thanks for letting us know Meg. – Erica