As promised, Daniel Rose hosted an indoor picnic de luxe last Saturday at Spring restaurant in the 9th. On the menu: lobster rolls, duck-fat french fries (a nod to Hot Doug?) and some very cold champagne.
We arrive late (quelle surprise) after a noisy afternoon at the Villette Sonique music festival. Walking in around 9pm, we’re met with fallen face and the words “we just sold the last sandwich.” There is a table, though, so we sit for wine and to plan our next move.
A bottle of champagne lands on the table. Soon after, a half-packet of algae-flecked Bordier butter. I see Daniel dash out and return with an armful of bread. “Well you’re here, you’ll eat a little something.” Then a platter arrives, grinning with cherry tomatoes and a pile of parsley-topped lobster salad. We split into the warm rolls, with one knife and no napkins, making DIY sandwiches on the table top.
Daniel and Marie-Aude start to clean the soon-empty restaurant, but stop over to replace and swig from a succession of bottles. Between chores, they assemble a bowl of raspberries for us to share, fresh cream and chocolate mousse on the side. Scraps of bright green pistachio cake also find their way from the pan to our plateless table.
We stay longer than is polite, allowing them to leave as the clock strikes midnight. We continue along to Chez Moune (dancing models are a let-down after this), while our hosts totter off to ponder the fact that they made more money selling sandwiches than their regular four-course menu.
For those who prefer a proper meal over communal scraps, you can call Spring to “reserve your beast” and then show up anytime on Saturday between 12-7. Normal price is €23 for a sandwich, and €5 for duck fat fries. Emptying the fridge and the cave (rightly) costs a little more…